Wine Club Newsletter - June 2013

Earliest Evidence of French Winemaking Discovered

Wouldn’t it be interesting to taste the wine the French were drinking 2,400 years ago? What would it be like? Crude? Harsh? They did have preferred vineyards and varietals, so thought went into quality. G.P.

By Stephanie Pappas, LiveScience

An ancient limestone platform dating back to 425 B.C is the oldest wine press ever discovered on French soil.

The press is the first evidence of winemaking in what is now modern-day France, according to new research published this week in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. The evidence suggests inhabitants of the region of Etruria got the ancient residents of France hooked. (Etruria covered parts of modern-day Tuscany, Latium and Umbria in Italy.)

"Now we know that the ancient Etruscans lured the Gauls into the Mediterranean wine culture by importing wine into southern France," study researcher Patrick McGovern, who directs the Bimolecular Archaeology Laboratory for Cuisine, Fermented Beverages and Health at the University of Pennsylvania Museum, said in a statement. "This built up a demand that could only be met by establishing a native industry."

Humans first domesticated the Eurasian grapevine some 9,000 years ago in the Near East, perhaps in what is now Turkey or Iran. Gradually, the intoxicating beverage spread across the Mediterranean Sea, conveyed by Phoenicians and Greeks. By 800 B.C., the Phoenicians were trading wine with the Etruscans, storing it in large jars called amphoras.

Shipwrecks from around 600 B.C. are filled with these Etruscan amphoras, suggesting that residents of the area that is now Italy were by then exporting their own wine. In the coastal town of Lattara, near modern-day Lattes, France, a merchant storage complex full of these amphoras has been found, dating back to the town's heyday of 525 B.C. to 475 B.C.

McGovern and his colleagues analyzed three of these amphoras to find out if they really contained wine. They also analyzed an odd limestone discovery shaped like a rounded platform with a spout, thought to be a press of some sort. Whether the locals used the press to smash olives or grapes was unknown.

The researchers followed careful standards for the artifacts they analyzed: Amphoras had to be excavated undisturbed and sealed, with their bases intact and available for analysis. They also had to be unwashed and had to contain possible residue.

 

Robo-Chopper Fights Wine Country Pests

By Eric Niiler

California researchers are teaming up with a Japanese vehicle manufacturer on a project to fly drone helicopters over Napa Valley vineyards to combat insect pests. The unmanned chopper — Yamaha RMAX IIG — has also been used in Australia as well, and farmers in Japan are also using it to spray and seed small areas, such as rice paddies, without affecting neighboring fields. A team at UC Davis recently ran a test flight in the Oakville district of Napa, and plans to expand, according to Wines & Vines Magazine.

The goal, according to UC Davis agriculture engineering professor Ken Giles, is to apply granular and liquid pesticides, as well as seeding cover crops and conducting specialized operations that would be too expensive with a larger vehicle. The RMAX IIG only weighs 220 pounds and is operated within the line of sight of the ground-based pilot.

Rent a Drone to Stop Intruders

Unmanned vehicles are slowly making their way onto U.S. farms, with similar experiments underway to survey fields to decide when crops are ready to harvest or need fertilizer or water. The Federal Aviation Administration is preparing new rules to allow an expansion of UAVs into civilian airspace by September 2015.

Excellent Idea of the Day: Choosing Red Wine Over White Wine

By Jennifer Viegas

If given the choice between red and white wines this holiday season, go for red, scientists say. A chemical found in red wine may help prevent cancer and other health problems.

A number of studies over the years have linked this chemical, resveratrol, to health benefits. But perhaps the strongest evidence yet will be presented this week at the conference "Resveratrol 2012," held at the University of Leicester through December 7.

"This is the second conference that brings together all the world experts in resveratrol," Karen Brown, a member of the University's Cancer Biomarkers and Prevention Group, and one of the organizers, was quoted as saying in a press release. We have got a fantastic line up covering cancer, heart disease, diabetes, neurological diseases and life extension."

"Having shown in our lab experiments that (resveratrol) can reduce tumor development, we are now concentrating on identifying the mechanisms of how resveratrol works in human cells," Brown added.

The lab experiments, which she refers to, determined that a daily amount of resveratrol equivalent to two glasses of wine can halve the rate of bowel tumors.

For those wishing or needing to avoid alcohol intake, the compound, found in the skins of red grapes, can be purchased in pill form. Such pills, however, lack the numerous other beneficial vitamins and minerals present in red wine. It's also hard to conduct a convivial holiday toast at the dinner table by clinking pills. Just keep any wine consumption in moderation.

The next step, in terms of research, is to determine the optimum level of resveratrol that humans should ingest.

"It has been shown that high doses of resveratrol may potentially interfere with other medication," Brown explained. "With all the exciting new studies that are being done, especially the clinical trials, I hope we'll have a clearer picture in the next few years."

This week's conference, already underway, includes more than 65 lectures, presentations and posters by different researchers from all over the world.

2012 Laird Pinot Grigio, Cold Creek Ranch, Carneros (June, 2013 The WineSellar Club)

Growing Region: Sonoma, California

Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Grigio

Fermentation: 100% Stainless Steel

Suggested Retail: $20.00

WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.64

Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The Laird Family’s Cold Creek Ranch is a 300-acre vineyard located on the Sonoma side of the Carneros district. The cooling sea breezes off the San Pablo Bay are perfectly suited for Pinot Grigio as well as Chardonnay, two grape varieties that thrive in this special vineyard.

Appearance:
Clear bottle and screw cap, two of my favorite packaging components for a soon to be consumed white wine. You can see what you’re getting, and you can get right to it. The dye cut label is distinctive, but I find the type font a more difficult read than it should be. The wine has a nice clearness, with straw hue, excellent viscosity, dripping slowly down the wine glass bowl.

Nose:
Beautifully sweet and fresh, kind of like a rainwater character with melon and exotic fruits. Got a touch of macadamia nut and sesame along with the honeydew melon, tangerine, orange blossom and kumquat.

Texture:
It has youthful spritz and lively acid. Even and weighty on the palate, it has a creamy and sexy feel in the mouth. The lively, racy acidity will tame with air and/or six more months in the bottle. The smooth, long, clean, even finish resolves the fruit and acid perfectly. This speaks well to its ability to age also.

Flavor:
The rainwater nose comes through on the palate. Peach and apricot fruit are forthcoming, and meld particularly well with the pleasant kiss of citric (mostly tangerine) acid. Other flavor descriptors include honey, beeswax, melon, particularly honey dew and cantaloupe, fig and pine nuts.

Serving Options:
Here’s a great summer sipper that presents a rather serious side to it. The wine has 1-2 years aging potential, but I say go for it now. The youthful zest is perfect foil for fish, shellfish and cheese. A great appetizer wine!

2010 Smoke Screen, The Chemist (June, 2013 - The WineSellar Club, Two Rouge)

Growing Region: Sonoma, California

Varietal Blend: Grenache, Cabernet, Merlot, Cab franc, Syrah, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre

Suggested Retail: $18.00

WineSellar Club Case Price: $15.30

Broad Strokes:
About Winemaker Gary Galleron:

Gary grew up playing in the vineyards on the street which bears his family name, Galleron Road. Gary first began experimenting with home winemaking while in high school and went on to graduate from California State University, Fresno with a degree in viticulture and enology in 1976. That same year, Gary started making wine at Chateau Montelena under the guidance of Mike Grgich. Since then, Gary has gone on to produce world-class, award-winning wines for the most prestigious names in the Napa Valley including Whitehall Lane, Grace Family, Hartwell, Vineyard 29, Del Dotto, Seavey, S. Anderson, and Chateau Montelena.

Galleron on the Chemist Red Blend: We combined seven varietals; Grenache, Cabernet, Merlot, Cab franc, Syrah, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre and came up with this elegant, food friendly wine. It has many of the characteristics of some of the Sangiovese’s I have had while in Tuscany. Just pull the cork, enjoy with a steak, pasta, pizza or just drink with some good friends.

Appearance:
Fun looking label with wisps of smoke. “To confuse and conceal” is the sub-heading for the project, and I was confused as there was no vintage on the front label. Cherry red hue, see through center.

Nose:
Kirsch, framboise, raspberry fruit becomes more sophisticated as it opens up. Some cured meats, hint of chocolate.

Texture:
Smoothing, soothing even texture is silky, soft, with the fruit and body styled like Sangiovese from Italy. Finish cleans up quickly with crisp acid.

Flavor:
Grenache provides smooth, easy-going fruit and the raspberry components. The Cabernet Sauvignon brings the structure. It’s old world grapes in a new world style. Cherry and cherry skin, and a hint of chocolate on the finish.

Serving Options:
Cured meats, roasted turkey, BBQ foods would be great with this palate dancer!

2009 Laird, Jillian’s Blend (June, 2013 - The Two Rouge Club)

Growing Region: Napa Valley, California

Varietal Blend: 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 12% Merlot

Fermentation: 50/50 French/American Oak, 60% New, 40% used once

Suggested Retail: $40.00

WineSellar Club Case Price: $34.19

Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: For consulting winemakers Paul Hobbs and Julian Gonzalez, the attraction to help the Laird’s craft their own wines began simply with their family. With Ken having over 40 years in the business, they recognized that he truly understood the ‘ins-and-outs’ of the industry and were able to meet the unique trends and challenges of the wine business. Paul and Julian saw Ken’s determination and knew he was in it for the long run, not simply for hobby’s sake. They also believed the combined vineyard expertise of Justin and Ken was tough to beat. Lastly, there was a shared vision and goal to produce great, estate wines.

Appearance:
The medallion styled label is good looking on the dark bottle, heavy bottle. It really punches out the product. The wine is black with shades of dark purple, which clings to the glass like a synthetic oil.

Nose:
While subtle, it is a high-octane prototype, assertive, providing delicious anticipation. Dark berry, sweet vanilla oak, black walnut, crushed herbs, smoke, and red licorice.

Texture:
Dense fruit, with a lovely rich and velvety texture, and a dairy like creaminess in the middle part of the palate. It possess some home heat, rich tannins, but still silken, with a good line of resolving acid in the middle and finish.

Flavor:
Minus the narrative: Deep black cherry fruit, chocolate, plum, rose petal, red licorice, grilled/toasted bread, smoke, cherry cola, mineral, chalk, earthiness, big time sweet vanilla oak, roasted hazelnut. Watch for a little sediment at the end of the bottle.

Serving Options:
If you want to let this wine develop over the years, may I suggest 6-12 bottles, and enjoy one a year. Should be absolutely fabulous in 2025. For now, a good steak with mushrooms or black pepper would be stirring to the senses.

2008 Perry Moore Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Cabernet Sauvignon (June, 2013 - The Gary Parker Collection)

Growing Region:   Napa Valley, California

Varietal Blend:  100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Suggested Retail:  $125.00

WineSellar Club Case Price:  $99.99

Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Dr. Crane is a small vineyard (25 acres) located in St. Helena in the flood plain of Sulphur Creek and is very gravelly. The cabs here tend to ripen earlier and are very comfortable with stress and heat. The fruit has an intense flavor, is herbal with soft tannins, layers and is very dark. With only 25 acres available we are in very good company with Paul Hobbs Winery also producing a single vineyard Cab from Dr. Crane.

Perry Moore wines are handcrafted in small lots to reflect the natural qualities of the vineyard, the grape and all that nature has to offer. Our attention to detail reflects in our commitment to produce not just good wines, but great wines that will leave a lasting memory.

Appearance:
Stunning looking appearance. Basically Darth Vader black with engraved lettering. EVERYTHING is engraved, no paper label anywhere. The bottle itself cost more than some wines. But of course, it’s what’s in the bottle. Black core with dark magenta rim, looks beautiful, can’t wait!

Nose:
The aromatics are intense, yet portray a great sense of refinement and elegance. This is rare, as often intense aromas will have rough spots. Sweet, rich dark fruits, cedar plank, Cabernet essence, all glorious.

Texture:
Powerful and smooth, very elegant, and yet very rich. I likened the texture to riding in a Bentley with a huge grill: you know you got something, but it’s so smooth, beautiful, everything is in place, all is right with the world.

Flavor:
The flavor wheel becomes focused on a few main parts, and then stretches its complexity from there. You have deep black fruits, cedar plank (savory notes), a great line of mineral/hot stone essence provides high interest. Very thought provoking, interesting, fabulous bottle of wine. This folks, is why I am in the industry.

Serving Options:
The wine will develop for many years to come, which may startle some, because the tannins are so well integrated. This treasure belongs in our cellars!

Pan Roasted Hawaiian Snapper with Caramelized Fennel and Tomato Vinaigrette

Here’s a great summer dish we use at The Brasserie sometimes. Will go great with the 2012 Laird Pinot Grigio. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

Tomato Vinaigrette:

  • 3 ripe Roma tomatoes, peeled seeded and diced
  • 1 shallots, minced
  • 1 leek (white part only) minced
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 3 cups extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup Chianti vinegar
  • 1 tbs. chopped tarragon
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

  1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the first four ingredients. 
  2. Mix well. 
  3. Add the vinegar and season. 
  4. Add the oil and tarragon. 
  5. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Swiss Chard: 

3 cups sautéed Swiss chard (1/2 cup per serving) using 2 tablespoons of olive oil

Fennel: 

5 bulbs fennel trimmed and cut in quarters blanched and cooled.  Set aside until serving. You are going to use the same pan you cooked the fish in to finish the fennel.

Hawaiian Snapper:

  • 6 six oz filets of snapper or any fin fish
  • 1 tbs. grape seed oil
  • Salt and pepper

Method:

  1. In a non-stick sauté, pan (high heat) pour the grape seed oil.
  2. Season the fish with salt and pepper.
  3. Set fish skin side down in pan and place in 450-degree oven until cooked to desired temperature.
  4. Remove the fish from the pan.
  5. Use a towel to remove excess oil from pan.
  6. On medium heat, place the pan and lay the fennel cut side down and caramelize till golden brown.  Turn over and repeat on the other side.
  7. Remove from pan and place the Swiss chard on your serving plate.
  8. Pour 2 oz of the vinaigrette around the fennel and place cooked fish on top.
  9. Garnish and serve.

Gary Parker

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