Wine Club Newsletter - October 2021
Streamlining Champagne
Here is an article I wrote to our club members eight years ago. I think it is a fun reminder of our upcoming holiday season, and just what Champagne is all about! GP
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Streamlining Champagne
As the holiday season comes about, many of us turn our celebratory drinking thoughts towards Champagne. I try to keep those thoughts going all year long, but sometimes it feels a little to decadent to have Champagne when not marking a special occasion or event. I am working towards getting past that nonsense.
For instance, the other day I took off to play golf, and arrived home earlier than the wife. I am the cook in the house, so I started to prepare the evening meal.
Some 30 minutes later I heard the garage door opening, signaling the wife was home and would be entering and ready for a little appetizer and some type of adult beverage.
I had previously determined that we would have Champagne with our appetizers (cheese and grapes) because food is so spectacular with Champagne. As she opened the door to the entry hall, she called out announcing her arrival, waiting to hear back from me.
Instead of verbally calling back, I popped the cork on the Champagne (loudly, on purpose) and with that universal signal, she knew the day’s stresses and efforts would soon be floating away. Within seconds, she was enjoying the captivating sensation of delicate, tickly bubbles and the delicious taste of Champagne.
There was nothing special to celebrate. I played lousy golf, she had a hard day, but the mood changed as we switched tracks from the grind to the sublime. Sometimes Champagne makes the occasion rather than marking it.
Streamline Your Champagne Knowledge
Champagne is a mystery to many people. How it is made, where it is made, why is it pink, why is it white, why some are so expensive, what do those names mean, how do you pronounce them, it’s sweet, it’s dry . . . it can be really confusing.
First of all, do you like your wines or bubbles on the dryer side or on the sweeter side? If you’re not sure, I can tell you most people drink Champagne designated “Brut”, which means it is not sweet, but not totally dry. Other Champagne designations which are really dry are “Extra Brut”, “Brut Nature”, or “Zero Dosage”. These last three may be too dry for most people.
Champagne labeled “Sec”, “Extra Sec”, “Demi-Sec” or “Doux” are sweeter in style, even though the word “Sec” means dry.
A Champagne made from all Chardonnay or white grapes is called a Blanc de Blanc, while one made from all red grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) is called a Blanc de Noir– “blanc” because the colorless juice from the grape is used.
A vintage Champagne comes from grapes picked during that one year, but most Champagne is non-vintage. Those non-vintage Champagne have older wines added to the younger wine to create complexity and often a house style. (More on that later).
A Rose’ Champagne can be made from both red and white grapes and can be tinted based on extracting color from the red grapes. Many modern rosé Champagnes are produced as regular of “Blanc” Champagnes, but they add up to 15% or so of a still wine, red Pinot Noir, to the finished wine. They believe this adds greater complexity and aging potential to the Champagne, and I wholeheartedly agree.
One of the best Champagnes I have ever had in my life (and best winery tours) was at Ruinart, where they served our group a bottle of 1986 Vintage Rose’, over 20 years old at the time. It was served at cellar temperature (57 degrees), and had amber/brick coloring, with a very complex aroma, super silken texture, delicate and very tiny bubbles, and just a total WOW! They make one or two of these special productions every decade or so, the price reflecting its rarity, about $400 a bottle.
The Best
Speaking of the high-end bottles, most Champagne houses make a “Prestige Cuvée” or “Tête de Cuvée”. These represent the best possible bottle of Champagne they can produce, sourced from the best vineyards, and made only in years where the weather and grape growing are exceptional.
In such a year, a “Vintage” year is proclaimed, and the producers will make their finest product from that year alone. One producer, “Salon”, only makes their Champagne in “Vintage” years, which is a mere few times every decade. That takes a lot of fortitude!
These “Prestige Cuvée” or “Tête de Cuvée” sit in the bottle at Champagne houses at least seven to ten or more years before they go to market. A great Champagne such as this will age a couple decades or more beyond the vintage year. They are exquisite after cellaring. But, unfortunately, we Americans tend to drink them too young (and too cold!) not actualizing their full potential.
On the other hand, our friends from Great Britain are known to prefer their Champagne completely mature. I love mature Champagne as well. They take on a deeper color, a touch of nuttiness, the bubbles are tiny and sparse (but still there), and the wine is very complex.
At this point I would like to strongly suggest you alter the way you consume Champagne. First, let it breathe for at least 30 minutes. Second, don’t serve it too cold. Finally, buy some excellent French Champagne, be it a non-vintage brut or a Tête de Cuvée, and cellar it properly for at least 5 years. You’ll be amazed at how these practices can really elevate your Champagne experience.
House Style
Earlier, I mentioned “House Style”. “House Style” is both important and helpful to help you determine what you producers are best suited to your tastes. All of the well-known Champagne producers make a blend that has distinctive characteristics and craft their product carefully each year to reflect their moniker. In the accompanying chart, I have listed the major Champagne producers, defining their “House Style”, as well as the name of their “Tete de Cuvee”.
Sometime soon I hope to be able to talk to you about Sparkling wines made here in California, the United States, and across the globe, as there are many great products to choose from.
Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
GParker@WineSellar.com
2020 Semillon, Yorkville Cellars, Randle Hill Vineyards
Growing Region Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino, California
Varietal Composition 100% Semillon
Fermentation Five Months Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 13%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: There are limited plantings in California, (less than 1,000 acres out of nearly a half million acres) it is becoming difficult to find Semillon bottled separately.
More is being discovered about this wine grape's origins every year, yet Semillon remains something of a mystery. It is the grape with the golden skin, capable of making, with the help of Botrytis (noble rot), the world’s best sweet wines. At one time, 90% of all vines planted in South Africa were Semillon, and Australia produces amazing very dry Semillon, but the grape seems to have appeared in south-west France out of nowhere somewhere in the high medieval period. The similarities in vines and resultant wines suggest a link between Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. However, to date DNA testing is inconclusive.
Semillon is notable as being one of the few white varietals that is very ageable. So, your choice: drink it now - young and fresh, or aged for 5-10 years for an extraordinary experience perhaps on a special occasion.
Appearance:
Clear bottle, you know I love that. Could use a larger font on “Semillon”. Good info on the back label. The wine is a light honey-yellow color, clear, reflecting light well, has excellent viscosity, dripping slowly down the glass.
Nose:
It has quite an exciting, promising set of aromatics, which will need a few years in the bottle to fully develop. Lovely tree fruit scent, especially that of Asian pear.
Texture:
Steely, mineral groove cuts the typical waxy feel you sometimes get from Semillon. Good, forthcoming fruit richness on the middle palate. Finishes clean, long, and with a touch of youthful acid.
Flavors:
Asian pear, Chinese five spice, white pepper, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, tangerine and vanilla. Reminding me of those 50-50 ice cream bars I enjoyed in my (distant) childhood. Buttered white corn, lime, chalk.
Serving Suggestions:
As the winery says, it will age 5-10 years, I am urging you to put at least 4-6 bottles in your cellar to check it out.
2017 Palato da Coa, Quinta da Saudade
Growing Region Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Duoro Valley, Portugal
Varietal Composition 40% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Roriz
Fermentation Twelve Months 50% French Oak
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $23.00
WineSellar Club Price $20.69
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Palato do Côa started in 2008, when winemaker Carlos Magalhães and five of his friends acquired 7.5 hectares of old vines alongside 8.5 hectares of new vines. The vineyard is located right in the Upper Douro area, within the Douro region, which is not only the oldest wine region in the world, but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. More specifically, the vines are planted in Muxagata, a small village in Vila Nova de Foz Côa. A place that holds one of the best terroirs in the region, combining schist soils with a unique microclimate that resonates with Carlos’ hard work. Its unique climate, with burning summers and rigorous winters, alongside a schist soil that both holds and refracts heat create the most amazing results from still wines to delicious Ports, all resulting from the hard work and man’s passion. The land has never allowed any machinery to do the people’s work. The hills are so steep and the soil so uneven that only way to make wine is to combine tradition and handcraft, which endure every year in the soul of Palato do Côa’s wines.
Appearance:
Somewhat pedestrian package with black and white as only impactful design element. Pretty purple hue, like an orchid or violet, or skin of ripe pomegranate. Great looking liquid, still brilliant on the edges.
Nose:
These are the same grapes that go into Port wine, so this is like a “wine” version of Port. Dark and dense, rustic, with a shot of fresh raspberry. Kind of guttural, earthy aromatics.
Texture:
These grapes a bit edgy, yet they are very fruit-expressive and flavorful. You get the ripeness, you get the edgy, tannins, and you get weightiness of the wine. Yet is has a classy, elegant feel to it.
Flavors:
Licorice, both red and black, with nutmeg, cinnamon, and a hint of clove. This might be weird, but I got roasted tomato, and then fresh watermelon . . . but that’s maybe just me. Then I got those two in the nose as well! More mainstream: dark berries, beef jerky, savory-spiced beef. Rustic, powerful, silky, it is like a bull in a bow tie.
Serving Suggestions:
Begging for steak and BBQ!
2018 I, The Queen, Scepter & Sword Wine Company
Growing Region Columbia Valley, Washington
Varietal Composition 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.2%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Our wines are carefully harvested from grapes grown on award-winning family-owned estate vineyards in Columbia Valley, Washington. Our grapes enjoy warm, sunny days and cool nights that help them grow through the uniquely nutrient-rich terrain naturally created by prehistoric floods over 30,000 years ago.
These favorable growing conditions bestow our fruit with a natural acidity while allowing them to develop intense hues and even richer flavors. The sustainable state-of-the-art winery is strategically located between vineyards ensuring we waste no time in pressing the juice immediately after harvest.
Appearance:
A great deal of attention, thought and resources went into this package. It is striking, unique, and will certainly stand out on any shelf. “The imagery of the scepter appears in different shapes and sizes and is present in many cultures throughout history. The packaging reflects this approach, a label that demands to be turned upside down where it becomes a scepter, the ultimate symbol of a Queen’s power and authority.” Raspberry red hue goes to almost clear on the edge.
Nose:
Notes of earth, raspberry and fine herbs are elegant, balanced, and very pleasant. Getting a nice sense of wood, oak, black pepper, sensing that even though the Syrah makes up just 5%, it plays a significant role in the aromatics.
Texture:
Medium in body and weight. Smooth, even palate entry with solid fruit backing and soft, but very present acids. A hint of creaminess in the middle is a lovely touch.
Flavors:
The raspberry theme (color and nose) is also called in on the flavor profile. I also detected and enjoyed the black cherry fruit, gravel, balsamic, black raspberry, black pepper, and vanilla oak.
Serving Suggestions:
I think this wine has a few years of bottle age to go, but it is lovely now!
2016 Coca I Fito Volats, Priorat
Growing Region Priorat, Spain
Varietal Composition 50% Grenache, 35% Carignan, 10% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $36.00
WineSellar Club Price $33.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Coca i Fitó is an innovative wine project run by two brothers, Toni and Miquel Coca i Fitó. These two forward thinkers are creating singular wines expressive of their unique Atlantic and Mediterranean sources.
Well regarded Catalan winemaker Toni Coca i Fitó is a perennial student – he has spent most of his life researching and learning about viticulture. As part of this constant ongoing education, he has focused on understanding the mineral interaction between soil and vine, as well as the different grape varieties and their ability to age and interact with one another.
His brother Miquel Coca i Fitó’s professional training has led him through gastronomy and the other gourmand arts, and finally to winemaking. Within this project he is responsible for honing the vinous jewels that come from these unique vineyard sites and grapes, coaxing out the pure beauty resting within each bottle.
Appearance:
I really like the image representing the very old vines that the wine we have originates. The color of the wine is a deep ruby red, solid at the core and still holding some brilliant color on the rim of the glass.
Nose:
It seems as if you can distinguish each grape varietal from the nose, which I think is just outstanding. Grenache is the Bing cherry. Carignan brings the dark berry fruits. Syrah brings the Black and white pepper. Cabernet Sauvignon gives us the bell pepper.
Texture:
Medium-full in weight and body. The entry feel is rich in fruit, lined firmly by tannic and natural acids. Just what you want!
Flavors:
How about a bowl full of dark ripe berries: blueberry, blackberry and raspberry. Sweet, ripe fruit from a dark plum, with the tartness of the plum skin edging it on. Touch of sweet vanilla kisses it off wonderfully. Concentrated pomegranate fruit. Leather strap.
Serving Suggestions:
Drinking beautifully in it’s present evolution, it will go another 5-10 years in the cellar.
2017 Grenache, Cendre
Location Adelaida District, Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 100% Grenache
Fermentation 36 Months 50% New French Oak
Alcohol Content 16%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $53.99
Broad Strokes:
Quite a story here: The owners of the winery’s wife, Ashley, recently passed away, and he wanted to commemorate her spirit. The word “Cendre” in French means ash, which is the name that Ashley went by. They wanted to portray the Phoenix Rising from the ash on the label.
The Ralph Vineyard sits on the slopes of a long valley, traversing the distance of the Pacific Ocean to the apex of the Willow Creek and the Adelaida Districts. We have been featuring a good number of wines from these districts recently, partly because a a tour I took there earlier this year, but, most importantly, because of the outstanding wines now being made here.
Appearance:
When I see the label, I can’t help but notice the forlorn, sad, reflective eyes of the sketched bird. I don’t want to dwell on the heart-breaker too long, but it really is an exceptional commemoration. The wine is strawberry-rhubarb in color. It is not dark or opaque, and it clings to the glass like 16% alcohol should.
Nose:
The wine has a beautiful, straightforward aroma of strawberries, red currants, a touch of raspberry, cinnamon, and vanilla. It is quite floral, and it’s scent is nigh on perfectly Grenache varietal character.
Texture:
A powerful yet still silken and velvety entry to your palate. The alcohol, tannins, the flavorful Grenache fruit all meld together, bringing us a rich, but not overwhelming feel on the mid palate as well as the finish. The finish is clean and long, balanced, with a nice kiss of acid when you swallow.
Flavors:
The strawberry fruit is foremost, and it is delicious! Followed by vanilla bean, the lushness of new oak, strapped, sweet leather, hints of tar and Herbs de Provence. Oh my gosh, I so love this wine!
Serving Suggestions:
Buy 6-12 bottle and put this beauty in your cellar 5-15 years.
2018 Santenay, Domain Justin Girardin, Clos Rosseau, 1er Cru
Growing Region Santenay, Burgundy, France
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $65.00
WineSellar Club Price $53.09
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Wine Enthusiast
Domaine Girardin is very much a family affair. With a winemaking heritage that stretches back to the beginning of the 19th Century, Jacques (brother of Vincent) now runs the 17ha family Domaine together with his wife, Valérie, and son Justin. Whilst not being officially certified, Jacques uses many organic techniques as he is passionate about producing wines that express terroir. The results are superbly perfumed, multi-layered wines.
Domaine Girardin is located in the south of Burgundy in the commune of Santenay, the most southerly area of the fabled Côte d'Or. It comprises a mere 8 hectares (17.6 acres). However, all of Girardin’s red wine holdings warrant Premier Cru status. The family’s most heralded red wine hails from the 1er Cru vineyards of Beauregard and Clos Rousseau in Santenay.
Appearance:
Totally classy looking package. Solid presentation, easy to read font, color contrasts, it has it all, for me anyway. I want this wine just looking at it. The wine is a bright crimson, not quite opaque at the core.
Nose:
Oh boy, I think after putting my nose to the glass. Solid Burgundy (Pinot Noir) aromatics that has a touch of smoke, tobacco, dried herbs, dark cherry, and strawberry, while exhibiting some delicious wood notes, vanilla.
Texture:
Medium in weight and body. Well rounded, it has some grip to it, but it still has that velvet-like texture that we wall love from our Burgundy. Excellent structure, combining good intensity with a smooth, layered texture that stays in your mouth for a long time.
Flavors:
Deep black cherry flavors, with dark soil, red fruits of cherry and strawberries, hint of pepper and finely crushed herbs. The drink is subtle, yet it has a dynamic presence with its seductive elegance, surprising length, and myriad of complexities.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a ten-year wine in our cellars. I suggest getting 6-12 bottles, drink one soon with a mushroom sauce over chicken or veal. Stunning!
NV Champagne Thienot, Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France
Growing Region: Villages of Grand Crus Avize, Premier Cru Vertus, Premier Cru Villers-Marmery, and Vitryat
Varietal Composition (Cepage) : 100% Chardonnay ( the base being from the 2014 vintage)
Vinification (From the winery): Methode Champenoise , 4 years in the cellar before release
Dosage: 8g/l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $82
WineSellar Club Price: $71.99
From the Winery:
“A cuvée which expresses, simply and cheerfully, the nobility of Chardonnay. A natural tribute to this wonderful grape variety ambassador of freshness and finesse, pillar of the style of the house.” – N. Uriel, Thienot Cellar Master
Appearance:
Light and bright yellow in color
Nose:
Grilled lemon, peach and white floral aromas with hints of chalk
Texture:
Tiny, delicate and persistent
Flavors:
Bright green apples, ripe apricots, pastry, a kiss of salinity, an elegant finish with a remarkable length.
Serving Suggestions:
This Champagne was made for Oysters! Serve with a green apple mignonette!
NV Pizzolato, Paloma, Brut Secco Rosé , Veneto, Italy
Growing Region: Veneto, Italy
Varietal Composition (Cepage) : 95% Glera, 5% Raboso from 100% organic grapes
Vinification (From the winery): Natural fermentation in stainless steel tanks
Dosage: 18g/l
Alcohol Content: 11%
Suggested Retail: $24
WineSellar Club Price: $17.99
From the Winery:
The Pizzolato family has been working in agriculture for over 5 generations with their estate spanning over 58 hectares as well as an additional 48 organically grown vineyards in which they collaborate with neighboring producers. The estate is located in the rich and flourishing countryside in the north of Treviso and the vineyards are situated on the plains and hillsides in this DOC area.
Appearance:
Sparkling and shimmery much like the packaging, so festive and fun!
Nose:
Cherries, lemon chiffon, almonds and fresh flowers
Texture:
Harmonic with fine bubbles
Flavors:
Vibrant with almonds, ripe apples, cherries, peaches, and lemon curd
Serving Suggestions:
A perfect party, holiday wine that is friendly and a real crowd pleaser. Delicious with cheese and charcuterie or lovely with Thanksgiving dinner’s tart cranberry sauce and savory dishes!
Squash Noodles
Here is another of my ‘home serving for two’ recipes.
Sometimes it is the simple things in life that bring joy and peace to your soul.
Last night, low on groceries, had a big squash sitting in the produce bin.
Here is what we did.
Ingredients:
- 1 large, whole squash
- 2 cloves garlic
- 4 ounces tomato sauce
- Pinch saffron
- 3 ounces white wine
- 3 ounces of low sodium chicken stock
- 1 ounce fresh lemon juice
- 8 ounces fresh salmon
- 1 teaspoon fresh oregano
- Salt & pepper to taste
Method:
-
Using a mandolin, grate the whole squash length wise. Cover with lemon juice, toss, and set aside.
-
In a large pan, add the tomato sauce, white wine, stock and saffron. Stir, reduce at medium high heat until the liquid is quite thick (The squash releases water when heated, so we want the sauce to be thick prior)
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From your salmon, take a sharp knife and cut off the skin, placing the skin on foil after you spray stick resistant on foil.
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In toaster oven, toast the skin twice to make it crispy, and set aside to garnish the plate
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Place salmon slices on a small, non-stick cookie sheet, lightly coat with olive or truffle oil.
-
Preheat toaster or regular oven to 300 degrees, and place salmon inside. It will take 12-15 minutes to cook through, leaving it very tender. Watch carefully.
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Add garlic, oregano and salt and pepper to the reduced sauce
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Add in the squash noodles, warming over medium low heat.
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When softened, plate the noodles, plate the salmon, garnish with salmon skin